Jordan 2006
A New Love in Jordan
October 2006
Jordan is a country of splendors. The landscape from the northern hilly and forested part to the middle where Mt Nebo overlooks the promised-land to Petra, home to the Nabataean civilization carved into the red mountains, to the moonscape of Wadi Rum and the seven pillars of wisdom to the southern part of Aqaba, the resort town on the Red Sea is varied and geologically amazing.
The people from the cosmopolitan city folks of Amman to the Bedouins choosing to live their traditional way of life in tents as shepherds are kind, generous, helpful, curious, family-oriented and proud.
The Arab mystic from a time gone by in a land where the crossroads of ancient trading routes for silk, gold, spices, coffee and frankincense converged in Petra with camel caravans numbering in the hundreds coming to do business to the robed men heads wrapped in cloth for protection against the elements on their trusty and sturdy decorated Arab horses to the more recent time of Lawrence of Arabia fighting the mighty Arab revolt from Wadi Rum to Aqaba with Bedouin tribes brave and desert savvy lingers in the air. Jordan is a treasure trove to lure any visitor, not once, but again and again.
I returned again this October to explore new and old sites, reconnect with local friends, and to be outdoors. I didn’t expect to find my new love but did, and it was during Ramadan no less. It is called Quateyf. It is a pastry made during Ramadan. It doesn’t look like much but looks aren’t everything. Part of quateyf is similar to a pancake but not sweet. Shops in town make the pancakes in front of their stores and package them by the half kilo or kilo. At home they are stuffed with a mixture of cheese and nuts or a mixture of nuts and spice. The pancake is folded in half and sealed. The quateyf is then cooked in oil to make it crispy on the outside and warm on the inside. After all the quateyfs are cooked and on a plate they are doused with sugar water and eaten warm. They are the best!
Other highlights in Jordan besides discovering quateyf:
· My wonderful guides Sami and Abdelazeez
· The family-stay in Amman with a Jordanian family who adopted me quickly. We did henna on the hands, smoking sheesha after the meal, taking drives through the city I was always disoriented in, shopping, and having the local dish called mensaf. The dish consists of rice and spit-roasted lamb that is continually basted in spices until it takes on a yellow appearance. It is garnished with pine nuts and with a warm yogurt soup to pour on top. They made this the first night I was there for breaking fast and lots of family members came to join in. It was delicious. Hadeel, the 18yr old daughter in the family insisted I stay in her bedroom which I did. Everyone else slept on cushions on the floor in other rooms. The 15yr old son forgot I was sleeping in Hadeel’s bed because the first night about 4:00 AM he came running into the room whispering excitedly, “Hadeel, Hadeel, Hadeel”. He was calling her to the morning meal before sunrise. I rolled over and went back to sleep. One afternoon stopping in at the beauty shop where the mom and daughters work to see a bride and others get hair and make-up done for a wedding. The more hairspray and glitter the better.
· The Roman Theatre of ancient Philadelphia in the heart of downtown Amman.
· The Royal Automobile Museum is impressive with many restored cars used by the late King Hussein. Cars are not my thing but this was well worth a visit. Read more about it at www.royalautomuseum.jo
· The Martyr’s Museum was also well done and informative
· Even though I stopped at Mt Nebo before, I wanted to admire the view across the valley to the Dead Sea, Jericho and the domes and spires of Jerusalem minus the haze and pollution but no such luck
· Mud bath at the Dead Sea followed by a tranquil sunset
· A night strolling among in the crowds in M’daba for local Ramadan festivities complete with fireworks
· Having not a care in the world sweating in a cave at the Hammamat Ma’in hot springs. Above the cave is a gushing waterfall flowing into other pools for relaxation and to admire the valleys walls surrounding the area
· Taking a late afternoon hike down a wadi leading to the Dead Sea. What makes this an unusual walk is you are walking in the creek which has hot water coming from the Ma’in hot springs. We stopped to get some cheap wading shoes for the 1.5 hour walk through the narrow siq. High rocky cliffs scattered with patches of plants, palm trees and small waterfalls with the setting sun making the place glow was a definite highlight. We saw a group of people camping out in a sandy patch not far from the starting point thinking this would be a perfect way to end a perfect hike.
· Hiking for several hours down a valley, Wadi Dana, to an amazing eco-lodge – see a picture of it here http://www.tribes.co.uk/countries/jordan/accommodation/feynan_wilderness_lodge.html. A nice write up on it http://travel.timesonline.co.uk/article/0,,10291-2370618,00.html This place could easily be in Santa Fe, Taos, Moab, Utah, or AZ. They use candles at night to light the place. Star gazing from here is a treat. I could have easily stayed another day or two. I will add this to my list for next time.
· Driving up a mountain road with treacherous turns and breathtaking views
· Meeting a very enthusiastic and passionate American professor doing research in the area on water rights, human influence on landscape, and deforestation
· Going to Little Petra and seeing a large rock tomb where my guides grew up in their early years with other family members before moving to a remote stone village high above Wadi Musa
· Nighttime BBQ out in little Petra with Sami’s family and AdelAzeez
· Going to Petra by Night which happens twice a week. Luminary bags are placed all the way from the entrance of Petra through the siq to the Treasury building and in front of the Treasury hundreds of luminary bags are set out making for a magical sight. Then camping in Little Petra
· Hiking from Little Petra to the Monastery. This is the back way hiking through the rugged, rocky, mountains with no other tourists were in sight. A local family with a girl no older than 6 and their goats scampered by nibble and quick making me feel sluggish and awkward.
· People watching in Petra from a tea shop then high above on a rock ledge leading to the High Sacrifice area. My mind drifting back to the 3rd century BC when this mighty place of palaces, temples, and tombs was filled with camels, donkeys, traders, men in colorful robes, and small fires burning for tea thinking not much has changed
· Hiking to the High Place of Sacrifice in the late afternoon sun giving the area a rich amber glow to the Soldiers tomb and the Lion Monument to our overnight destination at a Nabataean tomb with a view of the Snake Monument sitting high above. We started hiking from Little Petra at 8:30 in the morning and ended at 6:00pm thinking what a glorious day it has been. Our shoes came off and the tea arrived for a quiet evening with the stars and the local family living in the tomb.
· Morning hike to Jebel Haroun (Mt Aaron) to see Prophet Aaron’s tomb resting in a small white structure. The view from on top is a mixture of rugged mountains, golden hills, and the flat valley leading to the Gulf of Aqaba. This is a nice place to stop and reflect while sitting in the warm sun giving thanks for another amazing day.
· The walk back to Petra from Jebel Haroun following a different route was also a delight
· Breaking fast with Sami’s family and having mensaf again and another national dish called maqlubbeh. It means upside down and that is the way the dish is served. It is cooked in a pot and when it is ready you turn it upside down on a platter and eat it. This is a nice way to eat because many people can be accommodated and during Ramadan there is often the extended family and guests.
· Just when I thought, how can this trip get any better I went horseback riding with Abdelazeez’s son Hamza. The day was cloudless and the sky a brilliant blue. My request for a small horse was granted but I should have requested a gentle horse. The small horse was stubborn and would stop when and where it wanted to. My gentle nudges didn’t convince the horse I meant business. Hamza and I switched and I was much happier on the mellower Arab horse. The whole ride was incredible. We rode on dirt roads that went high above Wadi Musa. We passed an abandoned village and later on Abdelazzez told me this is the village where he lived for 18 years. His first son was born there. We are talking stone houses, no electricity, no running water, stores miles away but there was a school above the village. Pass the school the dirt road crested a hill and then went straight down and it was steep. The horses had no problems. At the bottom we rested and Hamza made tea. I sat below a huge fruit tree to look and listen. Entertainment arrived when three different goat herds converging by the orchard at a watering hole. There must have been about 100 or so goats of all sizes and colors fighting for water. They were fun to watch. From here we rode back a different way. This dirt trail overlooked Little Petra and Petra and what a view we had from this vantage point. It was a wonderful day. That evening I met more of Abdelazeez’s family and was offered the usual refreshments of tea and coffee then a sweet then a soda followed by many offers of what else could they get for me. By midnight I had my full of caffeine and quateyf and was sleepy after a full and memorable day.
· The drive from Wadi Musa to Aqaba follows the King’s Hwy and offers excellent views of Wadi Rum. During the drive we noticed an SUV was just off the road and stuck in the sand. Abdelazeez stopped to help out but that didn’t stop others from stopping to offer a hand; two large water trucks, a pick-up truck, a jeep, and the highway patrol. The people are extremely helpful here. In Aqaba I decided to treat myself to the resort beach at the Intercontinental Hotel for the afternoon. They had a nice beach front area and an incredible pool. The hotel was packed with holiday goers because the next day was going to be the first day of Eid.
· Exploring Jerash, watching a show with gladiators and chariots, listening to bagpipes at one of the outdoor theatres, and admiring all the columns still standing along colonnaded street paved with the original stones dating back to 64 BC.
· Free time in Amman known as the white city built on seven hills, buying a Beni Hamid rug by the Roman Theatre, sharing food with the shop keeper, being offered the best homemade cookies made by the shop keepers mother, trying to find the famous Ali Baba’s Quateyf shop (found it but it was closed) and having my last meal with my friend Rami. He treated me to a very nice meal at a popular restaurant. It was huge and had a goat hair tent sitting area outside. The place had ambiance and I was sorry not to see it lit up at night by lanterns. Another reason to go back.
Another great trip I won’t forget soon and I certainly won’t forget the people. By the way, I read today that Petra is on the short list for one of the new seven wonders. For anyone of you interested in going, please visit Sami’s website at www.jitours.com. Let me know if you go, I might join you. For photos please go to www.clubphoto.com and use my yahoo email (tumicki23@yahoo.com) to access the photos.
Becky of Arabia
October 2006
Jordan is a country of splendors. The landscape from the northern hilly and forested part to the middle where Mt Nebo overlooks the promised-land to Petra, home to the Nabataean civilization carved into the red mountains, to the moonscape of Wadi Rum and the seven pillars of wisdom to the southern part of Aqaba, the resort town on the Red Sea is varied and geologically amazing.
The people from the cosmopolitan city folks of Amman to the Bedouins choosing to live their traditional way of life in tents as shepherds are kind, generous, helpful, curious, family-oriented and proud.
The Arab mystic from a time gone by in a land where the crossroads of ancient trading routes for silk, gold, spices, coffee and frankincense converged in Petra with camel caravans numbering in the hundreds coming to do business to the robed men heads wrapped in cloth for protection against the elements on their trusty and sturdy decorated Arab horses to the more recent time of Lawrence of Arabia fighting the mighty Arab revolt from Wadi Rum to Aqaba with Bedouin tribes brave and desert savvy lingers in the air. Jordan is a treasure trove to lure any visitor, not once, but again and again.
I returned again this October to explore new and old sites, reconnect with local friends, and to be outdoors. I didn’t expect to find my new love but did, and it was during Ramadan no less. It is called Quateyf. It is a pastry made during Ramadan. It doesn’t look like much but looks aren’t everything. Part of quateyf is similar to a pancake but not sweet. Shops in town make the pancakes in front of their stores and package them by the half kilo or kilo. At home they are stuffed with a mixture of cheese and nuts or a mixture of nuts and spice. The pancake is folded in half and sealed. The quateyf is then cooked in oil to make it crispy on the outside and warm on the inside. After all the quateyfs are cooked and on a plate they are doused with sugar water and eaten warm. They are the best!
Other highlights in Jordan besides discovering quateyf:
· My wonderful guides Sami and Abdelazeez
· The family-stay in Amman with a Jordanian family who adopted me quickly. We did henna on the hands, smoking sheesha after the meal, taking drives through the city I was always disoriented in, shopping, and having the local dish called mensaf. The dish consists of rice and spit-roasted lamb that is continually basted in spices until it takes on a yellow appearance. It is garnished with pine nuts and with a warm yogurt soup to pour on top. They made this the first night I was there for breaking fast and lots of family members came to join in. It was delicious. Hadeel, the 18yr old daughter in the family insisted I stay in her bedroom which I did. Everyone else slept on cushions on the floor in other rooms. The 15yr old son forgot I was sleeping in Hadeel’s bed because the first night about 4:00 AM he came running into the room whispering excitedly, “Hadeel, Hadeel, Hadeel”. He was calling her to the morning meal before sunrise. I rolled over and went back to sleep. One afternoon stopping in at the beauty shop where the mom and daughters work to see a bride and others get hair and make-up done for a wedding. The more hairspray and glitter the better.
· The Roman Theatre of ancient Philadelphia in the heart of downtown Amman.
· The Royal Automobile Museum is impressive with many restored cars used by the late King Hussein. Cars are not my thing but this was well worth a visit. Read more about it at www.royalautomuseum.jo
· The Martyr’s Museum was also well done and informative
· Even though I stopped at Mt Nebo before, I wanted to admire the view across the valley to the Dead Sea, Jericho and the domes and spires of Jerusalem minus the haze and pollution but no such luck
· Mud bath at the Dead Sea followed by a tranquil sunset
· A night strolling among in the crowds in M’daba for local Ramadan festivities complete with fireworks
· Having not a care in the world sweating in a cave at the Hammamat Ma’in hot springs. Above the cave is a gushing waterfall flowing into other pools for relaxation and to admire the valleys walls surrounding the area
· Taking a late afternoon hike down a wadi leading to the Dead Sea. What makes this an unusual walk is you are walking in the creek which has hot water coming from the Ma’in hot springs. We stopped to get some cheap wading shoes for the 1.5 hour walk through the narrow siq. High rocky cliffs scattered with patches of plants, palm trees and small waterfalls with the setting sun making the place glow was a definite highlight. We saw a group of people camping out in a sandy patch not far from the starting point thinking this would be a perfect way to end a perfect hike.
· Hiking for several hours down a valley, Wadi Dana, to an amazing eco-lodge – see a picture of it here http://www.tribes.co.uk/countries/jordan/accommodation/feynan_wilderness_lodge.html. A nice write up on it http://travel.timesonline.co.uk/article/0,,10291-2370618,00.html This place could easily be in Santa Fe, Taos, Moab, Utah, or AZ. They use candles at night to light the place. Star gazing from here is a treat. I could have easily stayed another day or two. I will add this to my list for next time.
· Driving up a mountain road with treacherous turns and breathtaking views
· Meeting a very enthusiastic and passionate American professor doing research in the area on water rights, human influence on landscape, and deforestation
· Going to Little Petra and seeing a large rock tomb where my guides grew up in their early years with other family members before moving to a remote stone village high above Wadi Musa
· Nighttime BBQ out in little Petra with Sami’s family and AdelAzeez
· Going to Petra by Night which happens twice a week. Luminary bags are placed all the way from the entrance of Petra through the siq to the Treasury building and in front of the Treasury hundreds of luminary bags are set out making for a magical sight. Then camping in Little Petra
· Hiking from Little Petra to the Monastery. This is the back way hiking through the rugged, rocky, mountains with no other tourists were in sight. A local family with a girl no older than 6 and their goats scampered by nibble and quick making me feel sluggish and awkward.
· People watching in Petra from a tea shop then high above on a rock ledge leading to the High Sacrifice area. My mind drifting back to the 3rd century BC when this mighty place of palaces, temples, and tombs was filled with camels, donkeys, traders, men in colorful robes, and small fires burning for tea thinking not much has changed
· Hiking to the High Place of Sacrifice in the late afternoon sun giving the area a rich amber glow to the Soldiers tomb and the Lion Monument to our overnight destination at a Nabataean tomb with a view of the Snake Monument sitting high above. We started hiking from Little Petra at 8:30 in the morning and ended at 6:00pm thinking what a glorious day it has been. Our shoes came off and the tea arrived for a quiet evening with the stars and the local family living in the tomb.
· Morning hike to Jebel Haroun (Mt Aaron) to see Prophet Aaron’s tomb resting in a small white structure. The view from on top is a mixture of rugged mountains, golden hills, and the flat valley leading to the Gulf of Aqaba. This is a nice place to stop and reflect while sitting in the warm sun giving thanks for another amazing day.
· The walk back to Petra from Jebel Haroun following a different route was also a delight
· Breaking fast with Sami’s family and having mensaf again and another national dish called maqlubbeh. It means upside down and that is the way the dish is served. It is cooked in a pot and when it is ready you turn it upside down on a platter and eat it. This is a nice way to eat because many people can be accommodated and during Ramadan there is often the extended family and guests.
· Just when I thought, how can this trip get any better I went horseback riding with Abdelazeez’s son Hamza. The day was cloudless and the sky a brilliant blue. My request for a small horse was granted but I should have requested a gentle horse. The small horse was stubborn and would stop when and where it wanted to. My gentle nudges didn’t convince the horse I meant business. Hamza and I switched and I was much happier on the mellower Arab horse. The whole ride was incredible. We rode on dirt roads that went high above Wadi Musa. We passed an abandoned village and later on Abdelazzez told me this is the village where he lived for 18 years. His first son was born there. We are talking stone houses, no electricity, no running water, stores miles away but there was a school above the village. Pass the school the dirt road crested a hill and then went straight down and it was steep. The horses had no problems. At the bottom we rested and Hamza made tea. I sat below a huge fruit tree to look and listen. Entertainment arrived when three different goat herds converging by the orchard at a watering hole. There must have been about 100 or so goats of all sizes and colors fighting for water. They were fun to watch. From here we rode back a different way. This dirt trail overlooked Little Petra and Petra and what a view we had from this vantage point. It was a wonderful day. That evening I met more of Abdelazeez’s family and was offered the usual refreshments of tea and coffee then a sweet then a soda followed by many offers of what else could they get for me. By midnight I had my full of caffeine and quateyf and was sleepy after a full and memorable day.
· The drive from Wadi Musa to Aqaba follows the King’s Hwy and offers excellent views of Wadi Rum. During the drive we noticed an SUV was just off the road and stuck in the sand. Abdelazeez stopped to help out but that didn’t stop others from stopping to offer a hand; two large water trucks, a pick-up truck, a jeep, and the highway patrol. The people are extremely helpful here. In Aqaba I decided to treat myself to the resort beach at the Intercontinental Hotel for the afternoon. They had a nice beach front area and an incredible pool. The hotel was packed with holiday goers because the next day was going to be the first day of Eid.
· Exploring Jerash, watching a show with gladiators and chariots, listening to bagpipes at one of the outdoor theatres, and admiring all the columns still standing along colonnaded street paved with the original stones dating back to 64 BC.
· Free time in Amman known as the white city built on seven hills, buying a Beni Hamid rug by the Roman Theatre, sharing food with the shop keeper, being offered the best homemade cookies made by the shop keepers mother, trying to find the famous Ali Baba’s Quateyf shop (found it but it was closed) and having my last meal with my friend Rami. He treated me to a very nice meal at a popular restaurant. It was huge and had a goat hair tent sitting area outside. The place had ambiance and I was sorry not to see it lit up at night by lanterns. Another reason to go back.
Another great trip I won’t forget soon and I certainly won’t forget the people. By the way, I read today that Petra is on the short list for one of the new seven wonders. For anyone of you interested in going, please visit Sami’s website at www.jitours.com. Let me know if you go, I might join you. For photos please go to www.clubphoto.com and use my yahoo email (tumicki23@yahoo.com) to access the photos.
Becky of Arabia
posted by Becky of Arabia at 8:02 PM
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