Ethiopia Part 4 - Gondar
Part 4 – Gondar
The flight from Bahar Dar to Gondar was a short one with no delays. I shared a taxi into town with two local women. This gave me a chance to venture off the beaten tourist track to see where people live. Small shops and colorful one story buildings line the narrow dusty roads. Dogs, goats, and kids run randomly around oblivious to anything around them.
I stayed at the Quara Hotel for 150 Bir ($18) per night for two nights. The room was simple, decent and with a TV. This place also had a nice shaded courtyard in back away from the street; a very pleasant area to rest or have a meal. Right away on arrival ordinary looking guys inquired if I needed a guide. I guess if any male speaking English, French, or Germany and knows some history can be a guide. With limited work opportunities you can’t blame them for trying but someone else told me the certified tour guides are suffering because business is being taken away from them by these unofficial guides. I never asked for credentials. It is easier to make arrangements with the people at the hotel rather than seek out tourist offices or agencies. It is by luck or word of mouth if you get a good “guide”. I ended up with Samuel wearing a black t-shirt with an eagle and an American flag on it.
People come to Gondar to see palaces, castles, churches, angels and maybe as a stop-over to or from the Simien Mountains National Park 101 km away. The guide book calls Gondar “Africa’s Camelot”. The author of an article in Travel Weekly found Gondar “to be of only limited interest because the structures look positively European (they were built with the assistance of the Portuguese).” The Ethiopian Tourism Commission’s brochure reads, “Though its great days are past, its palaces and castles deserted, Gondar is one of Ethiopia’s most fascinating cities and one of the world’s most mysterious.” I don’t know about the mysterious part but I did enjoy my short time there.
Samuel in his black, pro American t-shirt and I walked up the hill from the hotel to the palace compound. In the 17th century Gondar became the royal capital of Ethiopia under Emperor Fasiladas. I enjoyed the walk around the grounds and inside the empty halls, audience chambers, and battlements. Tucked in a far corner of the compound is a working studio for local artists. I admired the weaver’s work on a loom entangled with many cotton threads but producing lovely scarves nicely trimmed in ethnic designs. In another corner was a painter working on a huge canvas taller than he. He painted in the style I have seen in the churches. I asked Samuel if these painters go to a school to learn the style. He didn’t know but thought maybe it is pasted down from father to son. That poses a good question, are women allowed to paint religious pictures? These religious paintings are a special part of Ethiopia’s culture and history. The folk-style, colors, and stories of the past to present evoke a sense of wonder and pride. Watching this man paint is a special memory for me.
The entrance fee for the palace compound also includes the Bath of Fasilidas, the emperor’s bathing pool and pavilion. This pool is one of the staple postcards but it shows it during a Timket celebration with huge crowds of people dressed in white lining the pool filled with water to be part of a mass baptismal ceremony. Today it is under renovation and a smaller cement pool has been built for Timket. One can still walk around the pool but cannot go into the pavilion. I found the jumble of entwined roots along one side of the exposed walls looking like something from The Legend of Sleepy Hollow intriguing and artistic and deserving of a photo.
After lunch and a rest it was time for part two of the tour. This was a highlight for me because ever since I bought my Ethiopian airline ticket I was curious about the cherubim faces on the ticket. It shows three brown faces with big eyes gazing off in different directions with a huge collar of wings around each face. Right away I wanted to see this painting but didn’t know where it existed in the country. My research answered the question. It is at the Debre Berhan Selassie (or Light of the Trinity) Church in Gondar – what luck, I was heading there.
The Debre Berhan Selassie church stands on raised ground to the north west of the city. It was constructed during the reign of Iyasu I (1682 – 1706). Samuel and I walked up another hill under a hot sun to be rewarded by shady gardens surrounding the church. The church is walled in and the entrance gate is a three story stone structure in a shape of a lion. Once Samuel pointed out what is the head and feet it is very obvious. I could have spent the afternoon here rather than the short time I had with Samuel because it was a charming spot. It reminded me of a summer cottage with a wrap around porch. Inside was the moment I had been waiting for; 80 cherubic faces looking down at me from the ceiling. The angle faces look amazingly well preserved as well as the other paintings and murals inside. The church has a wooden bench running along the wall for people to sit and look up at the ceiling and wall murals. Samuel relayed the story the pictures told and this when I wished I paid more attention in my religious studies class to be able to compare and contrast the beliefs of the orthodox Christians and Catholics. I still appreciated the beauty and passion of what I observed.
I had the rest of afternoon free and as luck would have it Desta was in town before going to see his family in a far away village. I met him and a cousin of his for refreshments (beer) before going to the Goha Hotel high up on a hill overlooking Gondar to watch the sunset and full moon rise. The hotel has a nice back patio and observations decks to view the tranquil valley below. It was a peaceful moment to be shared. Another one of Desta’s cousins was working at the hotel as a waitress so we sat down for coffee to chat with her.
After the beer and coffee it was time for solid food. Dinner was at a local place in town serving traditional food. We shared a big platter of the injera, doro wat (chicken in red pepper sauce) and yemiserwot (lentils in red pepper sauce), and other side dishes. The place reminded me of going to a rec hall where people come to gather, sit, talk and watch TV. The audience was 99% men and the TV was broadcasting endless seductive music videos. The men sat their eating their meal pacified by the TV. I silently hoped news or something more educational would come on but it was not to be.
The last stop of the night was to an Asmari bar Samuel mentioned. Not sure what is meant by an Asmari bar or Asmari for that matter, I looked it up.
Asmari is the Ethiopian musician caste. Besides singing Asmaris are known for their special instrument called a krar. The krar resembles a small harp and is placed on the knee and plucked as the singer chants a friend’s praises or on-the-spot poetic improvisations.
Desta’s cousin had to go back to the local university to study. Desta and I climbed the many steps leading up yet another hill behind the hotel and spotted the bar. The place was on the small side with low chairs and tables around the tiny dance floor. The tradition behind an Asmari bar is a place for people to gather to sing stories of people in the audience. The singer will continue the real or imaginary saga until a tip is given, to be placed on the forehead of the singer, and the singer moves on to the next victim, all in jest of course. Along with the singer is an Asmari plucking a lively tune on the krar, perfect for shoulder dancing. I think this art form has to be mastered while young in order to swing and jerk the shoulders about while not injuring one’s self. Desta was a pro. The tiny little place filled up quickly as a few locals came then a group of tourists with their guide. Now this was entertainment watching these foreigners trying to shoulder dance with no grace or rhythm.
Waking up the next morning I realize I have the whole day to myself – what to do? Where to go? Samuel found me in the morning and wanted to know if I decided anything about going for a four hour tour to go for a hike with the Simien mountains in the distance and looking for wildlife. With little prospect for anything else besides going to the post office we agreed on a price and he set off to find a vehicle to take us. A run down minivan appeared shortly after with a driver. We got water and fruit for the journey and Samuel had photos to give to the kids in the area of the hike. Five months earlier Samuel brought another tourist to this spot and the tourist took photos of the kids and sent copies to be distributed. I ended up doing the same – thanks go to Samuel acting as postman.
Not far from the hotel the paved road transitioned to a dusty dirt track. Now I understand why he got a mini van rather than a taxi to take us. The road is too rough for a small car. On the outskirts of Gondar is a village called Wolleka home to the local community of Falashas, the Ethiopian Jews most of which have “migrated” to Israel. Not knowing anything about this part of history I looked it up and this is what I came across.
On May 25, 1991, nearly 15,000 Ethiopian Jews were airlifted to Israel. This constituted almost the entire Falasha population. The massive airlift took place in less than 36 hours. The distance from Ethiopia is more than 1,500 miles. It took 40 flights to complete the mission…
You can read more about the Falasha at debate.uvm.edu/dreadlibrary/ebardfield.html
There was a small sign greeting vehicles passing through the tiny village and small stands displaying unique pottery enticing the vehicles to stop. We stopped on the way back to look at the primitive pottery. There were images of lions with a Star of David on their heads, little figures of Moses holding the 10 Commandments and figures preparing traditional foods. Keeping to my rule of traveling light, I decided on two small pieces, the size of large coins, one of a lion’s face and the other a Star of David. The lady was asking 20 Bir and I thought she was out of her mind asking for such a price for two pinched pieces of clay. Even Samuel was taken back by the price. We finally agreed on a reasonable sum.
The road to the hiking spot kept going up and up and up. Wonderful views of the distant Simien mountains acting as a nice backdrop to the rural villages and terraced fields. Several times I spotted sets of oxen going around and around in circles trampling on the fluffy piles of teff separating the grain from the shaft or at least this is what I got out of the translation.
High up on a ridge we stopped to start the walk. It didn’t take long for the kids from the photos to appear and did their eyes light up when they saw the pictures. Some of the smaller ones had to be told where they were in the photo not knowing what they looked like. It was then I realized why people of all ages are fascinated with looking at themselves on digital cameras – they get to see what they look like. They laugh and laugh pointing out their big ears, or short hair, or a missing tooth.
The hike was lovely and breathing fresh air again was a welcome change from the truck exhaust in town. Along the walk we spotted a great hornbilled bird sitting high on a tree. Next was to try to spot the reclusive colobus guereza monkey. Samuel took me to the rim of the canyon and said to stare at the trees far below waiting for movement in the branches. I was staring and concentrating hard enough to give me a headache. With no luck he asked some kids standing around where they have spotted some last. They were more than eager to go scouting the area running away with their axes and picks as they scampered up and down the steep terraces looking for the black and white monkey. We were lucky and got to watch one resting in a tree. As we said good-bye to this area I thought I would have to come back to trek in the Simien Mtn National Park. People who have been said it is an amazing place and very cold. Someday I think to myself.
I thanked Samuel and said I would send pictures to him when I got back. He flashed his brilliant white smile and gave me his address. I am happy to say the photos made it to him.
With the rest of the day to myself and a craving for French fries I went to the hotel patio to have my snack. It is not often I get the urge to eat French fries and here is the one time I get this urge and the power is out so they can’t make them now. No telling when the power will be back on either so I decide to go for a walk in the truck exhaust to see more of Gondar. I guess I wasn’t in the exploring mode as I did not walk very far and felt more like sitting in from of a TV. The power was back on at the hotel so I sat and watched TV while I knitted to pass time before my dinner of French fries. I guess I was really hungry because I ordered rice and veggies and French fries not knowing the rice and veggies comes with not only cooked potatoes but also with a side of French fries and a big basket of bread; lots of carbs that night. I took it easy that night knowing I had an early morning taxi ride to the airport to catch my flight to Lalibela. I was hoping this flight of all flight would not be late or canceled because I had arrangements to meet a driver to take me and another tourist to Filaket to start a 3 day 2 night eco hike. “Please let this flight be on time and that the driver be there” was how I ended my prayers and my time in Gondar.
For additional reading:
www.travelweekly.com Dec 4 2006 stating a case why Ethiopia can now be a tourist destination
http://www.allegro-music.com/work_search.asp?title=ethiopiques Asmari music
http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/jonclark2000/africa-05-06/1136031060/tpod.html good photos
The flight from Bahar Dar to Gondar was a short one with no delays. I shared a taxi into town with two local women. This gave me a chance to venture off the beaten tourist track to see where people live. Small shops and colorful one story buildings line the narrow dusty roads. Dogs, goats, and kids run randomly around oblivious to anything around them.
I stayed at the Quara Hotel for 150 Bir ($18) per night for two nights. The room was simple, decent and with a TV. This place also had a nice shaded courtyard in back away from the street; a very pleasant area to rest or have a meal. Right away on arrival ordinary looking guys inquired if I needed a guide. I guess if any male speaking English, French, or Germany and knows some history can be a guide. With limited work opportunities you can’t blame them for trying but someone else told me the certified tour guides are suffering because business is being taken away from them by these unofficial guides. I never asked for credentials. It is easier to make arrangements with the people at the hotel rather than seek out tourist offices or agencies. It is by luck or word of mouth if you get a good “guide”. I ended up with Samuel wearing a black t-shirt with an eagle and an American flag on it.
People come to Gondar to see palaces, castles, churches, angels and maybe as a stop-over to or from the Simien Mountains National Park 101 km away. The guide book calls Gondar “Africa’s Camelot”. The author of an article in Travel Weekly found Gondar “to be of only limited interest because the structures look positively European (they were built with the assistance of the Portuguese).” The Ethiopian Tourism Commission’s brochure reads, “Though its great days are past, its palaces and castles deserted, Gondar is one of Ethiopia’s most fascinating cities and one of the world’s most mysterious.” I don’t know about the mysterious part but I did enjoy my short time there.
Samuel in his black, pro American t-shirt and I walked up the hill from the hotel to the palace compound. In the 17th century Gondar became the royal capital of Ethiopia under Emperor Fasiladas. I enjoyed the walk around the grounds and inside the empty halls, audience chambers, and battlements. Tucked in a far corner of the compound is a working studio for local artists. I admired the weaver’s work on a loom entangled with many cotton threads but producing lovely scarves nicely trimmed in ethnic designs. In another corner was a painter working on a huge canvas taller than he. He painted in the style I have seen in the churches. I asked Samuel if these painters go to a school to learn the style. He didn’t know but thought maybe it is pasted down from father to son. That poses a good question, are women allowed to paint religious pictures? These religious paintings are a special part of Ethiopia’s culture and history. The folk-style, colors, and stories of the past to present evoke a sense of wonder and pride. Watching this man paint is a special memory for me.
The entrance fee for the palace compound also includes the Bath of Fasilidas, the emperor’s bathing pool and pavilion. This pool is one of the staple postcards but it shows it during a Timket celebration with huge crowds of people dressed in white lining the pool filled with water to be part of a mass baptismal ceremony. Today it is under renovation and a smaller cement pool has been built for Timket. One can still walk around the pool but cannot go into the pavilion. I found the jumble of entwined roots along one side of the exposed walls looking like something from The Legend of Sleepy Hollow intriguing and artistic and deserving of a photo.
After lunch and a rest it was time for part two of the tour. This was a highlight for me because ever since I bought my Ethiopian airline ticket I was curious about the cherubim faces on the ticket. It shows three brown faces with big eyes gazing off in different directions with a huge collar of wings around each face. Right away I wanted to see this painting but didn’t know where it existed in the country. My research answered the question. It is at the Debre Berhan Selassie (or Light of the Trinity) Church in Gondar – what luck, I was heading there.
The Debre Berhan Selassie church stands on raised ground to the north west of the city. It was constructed during the reign of Iyasu I (1682 – 1706). Samuel and I walked up another hill under a hot sun to be rewarded by shady gardens surrounding the church. The church is walled in and the entrance gate is a three story stone structure in a shape of a lion. Once Samuel pointed out what is the head and feet it is very obvious. I could have spent the afternoon here rather than the short time I had with Samuel because it was a charming spot. It reminded me of a summer cottage with a wrap around porch. Inside was the moment I had been waiting for; 80 cherubic faces looking down at me from the ceiling. The angle faces look amazingly well preserved as well as the other paintings and murals inside. The church has a wooden bench running along the wall for people to sit and look up at the ceiling and wall murals. Samuel relayed the story the pictures told and this when I wished I paid more attention in my religious studies class to be able to compare and contrast the beliefs of the orthodox Christians and Catholics. I still appreciated the beauty and passion of what I observed.
I had the rest of afternoon free and as luck would have it Desta was in town before going to see his family in a far away village. I met him and a cousin of his for refreshments (beer) before going to the Goha Hotel high up on a hill overlooking Gondar to watch the sunset and full moon rise. The hotel has a nice back patio and observations decks to view the tranquil valley below. It was a peaceful moment to be shared. Another one of Desta’s cousins was working at the hotel as a waitress so we sat down for coffee to chat with her.
After the beer and coffee it was time for solid food. Dinner was at a local place in town serving traditional food. We shared a big platter of the injera, doro wat (chicken in red pepper sauce) and yemiserwot (lentils in red pepper sauce), and other side dishes. The place reminded me of going to a rec hall where people come to gather, sit, talk and watch TV. The audience was 99% men and the TV was broadcasting endless seductive music videos. The men sat their eating their meal pacified by the TV. I silently hoped news or something more educational would come on but it was not to be.
The last stop of the night was to an Asmari bar Samuel mentioned. Not sure what is meant by an Asmari bar or Asmari for that matter, I looked it up.
Asmari is the Ethiopian musician caste. Besides singing Asmaris are known for their special instrument called a krar. The krar resembles a small harp and is placed on the knee and plucked as the singer chants a friend’s praises or on-the-spot poetic improvisations.
Desta’s cousin had to go back to the local university to study. Desta and I climbed the many steps leading up yet another hill behind the hotel and spotted the bar. The place was on the small side with low chairs and tables around the tiny dance floor. The tradition behind an Asmari bar is a place for people to gather to sing stories of people in the audience. The singer will continue the real or imaginary saga until a tip is given, to be placed on the forehead of the singer, and the singer moves on to the next victim, all in jest of course. Along with the singer is an Asmari plucking a lively tune on the krar, perfect for shoulder dancing. I think this art form has to be mastered while young in order to swing and jerk the shoulders about while not injuring one’s self. Desta was a pro. The tiny little place filled up quickly as a few locals came then a group of tourists with their guide. Now this was entertainment watching these foreigners trying to shoulder dance with no grace or rhythm.
Waking up the next morning I realize I have the whole day to myself – what to do? Where to go? Samuel found me in the morning and wanted to know if I decided anything about going for a four hour tour to go for a hike with the Simien mountains in the distance and looking for wildlife. With little prospect for anything else besides going to the post office we agreed on a price and he set off to find a vehicle to take us. A run down minivan appeared shortly after with a driver. We got water and fruit for the journey and Samuel had photos to give to the kids in the area of the hike. Five months earlier Samuel brought another tourist to this spot and the tourist took photos of the kids and sent copies to be distributed. I ended up doing the same – thanks go to Samuel acting as postman.
Not far from the hotel the paved road transitioned to a dusty dirt track. Now I understand why he got a mini van rather than a taxi to take us. The road is too rough for a small car. On the outskirts of Gondar is a village called Wolleka home to the local community of Falashas, the Ethiopian Jews most of which have “migrated” to Israel. Not knowing anything about this part of history I looked it up and this is what I came across.
On May 25, 1991, nearly 15,000 Ethiopian Jews were airlifted to Israel. This constituted almost the entire Falasha population. The massive airlift took place in less than 36 hours. The distance from Ethiopia is more than 1,500 miles. It took 40 flights to complete the mission…
You can read more about the Falasha at debate.uvm.edu/dreadlibrary/ebardfield.html
There was a small sign greeting vehicles passing through the tiny village and small stands displaying unique pottery enticing the vehicles to stop. We stopped on the way back to look at the primitive pottery. There were images of lions with a Star of David on their heads, little figures of Moses holding the 10 Commandments and figures preparing traditional foods. Keeping to my rule of traveling light, I decided on two small pieces, the size of large coins, one of a lion’s face and the other a Star of David. The lady was asking 20 Bir and I thought she was out of her mind asking for such a price for two pinched pieces of clay. Even Samuel was taken back by the price. We finally agreed on a reasonable sum.
The road to the hiking spot kept going up and up and up. Wonderful views of the distant Simien mountains acting as a nice backdrop to the rural villages and terraced fields. Several times I spotted sets of oxen going around and around in circles trampling on the fluffy piles of teff separating the grain from the shaft or at least this is what I got out of the translation.
High up on a ridge we stopped to start the walk. It didn’t take long for the kids from the photos to appear and did their eyes light up when they saw the pictures. Some of the smaller ones had to be told where they were in the photo not knowing what they looked like. It was then I realized why people of all ages are fascinated with looking at themselves on digital cameras – they get to see what they look like. They laugh and laugh pointing out their big ears, or short hair, or a missing tooth.
The hike was lovely and breathing fresh air again was a welcome change from the truck exhaust in town. Along the walk we spotted a great hornbilled bird sitting high on a tree. Next was to try to spot the reclusive colobus guereza monkey. Samuel took me to the rim of the canyon and said to stare at the trees far below waiting for movement in the branches. I was staring and concentrating hard enough to give me a headache. With no luck he asked some kids standing around where they have spotted some last. They were more than eager to go scouting the area running away with their axes and picks as they scampered up and down the steep terraces looking for the black and white monkey. We were lucky and got to watch one resting in a tree. As we said good-bye to this area I thought I would have to come back to trek in the Simien Mtn National Park. People who have been said it is an amazing place and very cold. Someday I think to myself.
I thanked Samuel and said I would send pictures to him when I got back. He flashed his brilliant white smile and gave me his address. I am happy to say the photos made it to him.
With the rest of the day to myself and a craving for French fries I went to the hotel patio to have my snack. It is not often I get the urge to eat French fries and here is the one time I get this urge and the power is out so they can’t make them now. No telling when the power will be back on either so I decide to go for a walk in the truck exhaust to see more of Gondar. I guess I wasn’t in the exploring mode as I did not walk very far and felt more like sitting in from of a TV. The power was back on at the hotel so I sat and watched TV while I knitted to pass time before my dinner of French fries. I guess I was really hungry because I ordered rice and veggies and French fries not knowing the rice and veggies comes with not only cooked potatoes but also with a side of French fries and a big basket of bread; lots of carbs that night. I took it easy that night knowing I had an early morning taxi ride to the airport to catch my flight to Lalibela. I was hoping this flight of all flight would not be late or canceled because I had arrangements to meet a driver to take me and another tourist to Filaket to start a 3 day 2 night eco hike. “Please let this flight be on time and that the driver be there” was how I ended my prayers and my time in Gondar.
For additional reading:
www.travelweekly.com Dec 4 2006 stating a case why Ethiopia can now be a tourist destination
http://www.allegro-music.com/work_search.asp?title=ethiopiques Asmari music
http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/jonclark2000/africa-05-06/1136031060/tpod.html good photos
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