Becky of Arabia - Part 2: Ethiopia Part 5

Hello Everyone,

Here is part 5 and one more to go. I got back April 20^th from my last vacation in Ethiopia. It was very nice to be back. This time I headed south and visited three towns. One was Shaashamannee – home to the Rastafarians. More on that later.

The count down has started! Time to seriously think about packing and organizing my summer travels. No plans for another job just yet.

Becky

Ethiopia Part 5 – Lalibela

The flight from Gondar to Lalibela was on time, the driver was there as well as Caroline the other tourist going on the walk, albeit a bit sick. So far everything was going to plan. It got even better as the reported three hour ride turned out to be less than two hours. The scenery was soothing, peaceful, mountainous, remote and pastoral. The road was dirt, dusty, and bumpy. We passed many pilgrims walking the road as they made their way to Lalibela for the Orthodox Christmas celebration in several days. We too would be making it back in time for Christmas.

Our directions were to meet at the SCUK office in Filakit and to join an American couple also going on the trek arranged through TESFA. TESFA offers wonderful mini treks in this area. http://www.community-tourism-ethiopia.com. The couple was not there yet and since they were taking a bus from another location we knew their arrival could be iffy. We asked the driver for a place to have lunch and it was a small place serving traditional food – meat and injera. Not what I was really looking for but not may options when it comes to food. The juice from the meat was very good with the injera and I picked at the meat not wanting to tempt fate with what Caroline had. She was not in the mood for solid food yet but needed something. Back at the office they made her rice. No sign of the couple yet. The driver left after we had a dispute over the fare. He wanted more than the agreed upon price leading to a he-said-she-said debate. We made arrangements through another man for the vehicle and driver. I hate these altercations. We met half way on the price.

Caroline and I passed the time talking about our time in Ethiopia and our backgrounds as the sun was shifting to the setting position. Now my mind started to wonder, “would the others get here in time to make the walk while there was still day light?” and “what happens if they never show?” and “do we start the walk ourselves?” After three hours of waiting they came covered in dust from their bus ride. They were late because there were two buses going to Lalibela passing through Filakit but there were not enough people to fill the two buses and to decide which bus would go ended up in a stale mate. People had to be called and consulted on which bus would go. Meanwhile the couple was anxious to get moving on any old bus.

It didn’t take long to get the donkeys packed to be on our way. We had our tall guide, the owners of the donkeys with one of the owners wearing one plastic shoe while carrying the other the entire time, and the four of us. It was great to be walking through villages, fields, and woods. With the late start we did have to walk in the dark and asked the guide several times how much further. The 20 minutes turned into an hour but with a nearly full moon and walking on relatively flat land it was not bad despite the protests from our feet and our stomachs. Arriving in the dark added an element of surprise and intrigue to the remote setting of three huts at Mequat Mariam sitting on the edge of the plateau looking over a vast canyon. Hot food was waiting for us in the food hut. We sat by lantern light eating wonderful rice, veggies, and bread followed by a coffee ceremony and cake. This type of meal after being physically exhausted is the best, bar none.

The accommodations were also in the primitive huts with very comfortable beds. We slept like the dead. The treat the next morning was watching the sunrise over the canyon. From the camp you don’t see anything else except nature. Huge birds circled over head. The moon was setting as the sun was rising. The colors of the canyon changed from browns to reds to purples to rust. Instead of eating inside they brought they table out so we could enjoy the canyon side view. The donkeys came over to join as did the locals working for TESFA as the accountant, guard, etc. A few men came by with their knitting and I had to join them. We shared our techniques baffled over each other’s. They use a long piece of rough wire with not a very pointy end making it more difficult to knit. I was knitting socks using 4 needles and they looked on utterly bewildered.

Caroline was weak and down for the count and requested a horse. We were off again under sunny skies walking past villages, herds, fields, water wells, and lots of children saluting us and eager to shake hands. It was a nice change from being asked for pens, money etc. In the afternoon several small boys were sitting by a small fire roasting something and they motioned for us to stop and have some. It was roasted barley – hot and chewy and nutty. It was a nice treat. I love these kinds of days; no rushing just walking enjoying the moment. This day reminded me of the tranquil hike in Yemen where we also leisurely walked from place to place among fields.

Our next overnight was in Wajela and also in huts but closer to other villages. This was also very scenic. Pizza bread was waiting for us. After a rest I went over to the food hut and watched the two ladies prepare food for the evening meal. The roasting of the coffee started and I asked if I could do the pounding of the roasted beans. It takes about 10-15 minutes to pound away using an oversize wooden mortar and pestle. The motion is more up and down than a squishing and takes endurance. I enjoyed this moment being with them and watching.

The evening meal was another special time by candle light and fire. After the meal Josh did his magic with his camera and took some incredible shots of the hosts at the camp. You can see his work at www.joshuscogan.com.

The next day was a few hours walk back to the main road to meet our transport to take us to Lalibela. I was sad to being ending the trek so soon. Next time I will go on a longer one offered by TESFA. As compensation for not wanting to end the adventure so soon there was a funeral going on in the field close to where we were waiting. Besides lots of people dressed in white, there were a slew of horses all done up in tassels and fancy décor. The small size horses were apart from the people and I just had to go over and admire them. Within seconds I was surrounded by men motioning for me to go for a ride. Being a funeral and all I declined. This didn’t deter the men one bit. Now they wanted to have their photos taken by their horses.

The van magically appeared and off we bumped down to Lalibela. It was Christmas Eve day and Lalibela was swarming with people. The roads seemed impassable with wall to wall people but the van slowly made its way to the hotel we were staying at. Another heated debate took place as the hotel people said the placed was fully booked and then asked us how much we would pay. They were demanding 500 bir because it was high season due to Christmas. How could this be I thought since I met with the manager in Addis and he was very helpful and knew I was coming? We even talked while I was in Gondar. I asked for the manager and he was out. I asked for the reservation book and the workers said they don’t keep one. I felt I was in no position to argue since the manager and I did not agree on a price. I was going off the guide book around 120 bir a night. I ended up going next door where Caroline was staying and they had a room for 200 bir and that I could swing as oppose to paying 500 bir. My foul mood went down the drain along with all the dirt and dust from a very much needed hot the shower.

People come to Lalibela to see an impressive collection of rock churches. A brochure highlights the place stating:

Lalibela has the highest concentration of Churches of such architectural elegance and overall engineering sophistication in one spot. Their lighting systems, channels, water works, network of interconnected subterranean passageways and the sheer magnitude of the whole project are mind boggling – just the excavated material is estimated to be enough to make 10 of the Great Pyramid of Egypt.

The Churches are attributed to King Lalibela (ca 1200 AD) who was later canonized by the Ethiopian Church and is referred to by Europeans as the legendary Prester John. According to legend:

Lalibela grew up in Roha (what is today known as Lalibela), where his brother was king. It is said that bees prophesied his future greatness, and Ethiopian folklore still has it that bees in a dream foretell greatness, social advance and coming riches. The king, made jealous by these prophecies about his brother, tried to poison him, but the poison merely cast Lalibela into a death-like sleep for three days. During these three days an angel carried his soul to heaven to show him the churches which he was to build. Returned once more to earth he withdrew into the wilderness, then took a wife upon God’s command with the name of Maskal Kebra (Exalted Cross) and flew with an angel to Jerusalem. Christ himself ordered the king to abdicate in favor of Lalibela. Annoted king under the throne name Gabre-Maskal (Servant of the Cross) Lalibela, living himself an even more severe monastic life than before, carried out the construction of the churches. Angels worked side by side with the stone masons and within 24 years the entire work was complete (11 churches total).

There are two mains groups of churches in Lalibela, one on each side of the river Jordan, and one other church set apart from the rest. While eating lunch at the hotel I made arrangements with the hotel staff to have someone guide me through one cluster of churches. I distinctly remember asking him, “is it better to go tomorrow considering there are many pilgrims now?” He said, “No, much better to go today since tomorrow is Christmas and there will be many more people.” I ended up going both days and Christmas Eve day was by far the worse day for crowds. Pilgrims were sitting everywhere making it difficult to go inside the churches and to walk around outside the churches. If you don’t like crowds then don’t go on Christmas Eve day. What do I remember most of seeing the churches? Walking in socking feet, no shoes allowed inside, on the hard, chiseled rock – oh, my poor tender feet were not use to this. With all the churches to go in and out of it would have been better to have sandals rather than tying and untying shoes over and over from church to church. I also remember how impressive these rock churches are with the sheer size of them being cut from rock some two stories high. See the links below for more information on these special churches.

In need of refreshment after the tour, my guide and I walked up the steep hill, Lalibela is located on a massive hill, to a Tej house for honey wine called tej. The place was packed. No surprise considering all the people about. I decided to relax the rest of the day and contemplate if to get up at midnight to walk back up to the churches for the vigil. Locals assured me many people would still be walking to the churches and I could join the crowd. I did get up at 12:30am, got dressed, and walked over to the street to see the street pretty much deserted except for three men walking. It is about a ten minute walk through dark isolated areas and I thought better not to go. I went back to bed but I did feel like I was right there at the vigil with the loud speakers doing a mighty fine job spreading the word directly into my room.

In lieu of the midnight walk, I did a predawn walk and the place was abuzz with pilgrims. Stalls were ready for business trying to get last minute sales as people headed back to their homes and villages. Standing in one place longer than, say, a minute attracts the male gender. I had three students eager to show me the animal market and other places along the steep hill up to top. At the top was a truck selling oranges – a welcomed sight. Instead of taking the long way down the hill to my hotel via the road, the boys showed me a short cut through a village where people were underway preparing for the Christmas meal – I saw a few goats being butchered at people’s houses.

My Christmas meal was an omelet minus the goat meat. With the whole day ahead of me and a full stomach I decided to go explore the churches on my own since my ticket was still valid. What a difference a day makes. There was hardly anyone there compared to the day before. How could my guide not notice this from past years? I assume he wanted to secure the job that day in case I changed my mind. I did a few churches having more time to linger and admire the art work but it was not long before two local guys came over to say hi while I was tying my shoelaces. Alex and Steve, about 17 yrs of age, are students and they like to practice their English. They also seemed a bit bored and were more than eager to show me some other churches. It turned out to be a very nice tour and we ended with Alex inviting me to his mother’s house for coffee later in the afternoon. I accepted and had a great time meeting his little sister, his mom, and all the other kids coming in and out of their small dwelling – no bigger than a size of a bed room. Alex said since he is no longer young, he sleeps with his friends wherever that may be and his mom and his sister sleep in the one bed in the tiny room. I had my camera and I asked Alex if he would like to take a picture of his family. He did but managed to cut his mom’s head off. While the coffee was being made I asked the kids sitting by me if they would like to sing a song for me. They sang and danced and shook their little bodies – too precious.

Along the walk back down the hill to my hotel Alex took me the back way and we ended up at St George’s church – the most famous or most photographed one because it is in the shape of a cross and you almost have to be standing on top of it to see it is in the ground. Mind you, it is still Christmas day and people have gathered at the bottom of the church singing, drumming, and dancing in circles. A crowd has also gathered at the top sitting down to watch the merriment below. The sun was about to set adding an element of joy and peace to all.

Alex not wanting to say good-bye yet asked if wanted to try tej at the Tej house later in the evening. That gave me enough time to visit with Caroline and to pay a visit to the manager of the hotel where I was originally suppose to stay. He explained the mix up and offered his apologies. To smooth things over a bit he said he would be going to the airport too the next day and could give me a lift. I accepted after reconfirming that it would not be a problem for him and that I had to be there by 9am. Can you sense something goes amiss with the ride?

Alex met me again and we walked back up the hill to the Tej house. It was packed again but decided to stay and sit out in the grass area littered with stumps and small make shift benches. We ended up on one by the smelly outhouse but at least it was in the cool air. Inside I am sure it was stifling. After drinking the Fanta colored tej, people watching and small talk, it was time to go. He walked me back down once again and asked very politely for a kiss since he had fallen in love with me.

The next morning turned out to be my worst morning of the trip. The short of it was the hotel manager left me high and dry. His vehicle had bad brakes and could not take me (it was the same vehicle that took Caroline and me to Filakit as it turned out) and then he said not to worry. I was already beyond worrying because it was getting late and the airport is far away and not many taxis were passing by. I was getting annoyed. The next time the manager came out of his office he said now I would be late and it would be hard to get a vehicle seeing most of them already took off to the airport – not what I wanted to hear. He disappeared again and now his brother at least stepped up to the plate and said I could catch a ride with another car going to the top of the hill. At the top of the hill the brother asked a random guy to make sure I find a ride to the airport and then left me. The random guy found me a 300 bir ride that would normally be 60 bir. I was fuming and time was running out! I hated to leave Lalibela like this but after thinking about the trek, the rock churches, and the kindness of Alex I couldn’t stay mad for long. The kicker is the flight to Axum I was trying so desperately to be on time for was delayed by over an hour.

The last installment, al humdolilah, is on Axum, the capital of a past great civilization. Axum also happens to be my favorite place I visited. Stay tuned to find out why there is a little of Denver, CO in Axum.

Becky of Arabia - Part 2

Saturday, April 28, 2007

Ethiopia Part 5 - Lalibela

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